Senin, 30 Maret 2015

Deciding Which Trick To Train First!

Deciding Which Trick To Train First!

You may not realize this, but the first behavior you train your bird to perform can have a
lasting impact on your training success.

This is not said to discourage you if you’Ve already trained your parrot a trick, but to let
you know that the first trick you train your parrot, will be the trick that he always falls
back on when he gets confused, and it will be the most practiced and polished behavior
in his whole repertoire.

With this being the case, I always recommend that people first train their parrot to
retrieve something, because the ‘retrieve’ behavior is a core fundamental behavior that
is used in countless numbers of advanced trick routines.

Another behavior I recommend training first is ‘target training’. Target training is
where you train your parrot to touch things that you point or signal to. This trick is
often taught as a default trick when parrot owners first hear of my training products,
because I highly recommend ‘target training’ as a way to communicate and train a
parrot that has aggressive biting issues.

Either of these tricks work well as basic first tricks, and H1 cover how to perform each
ofthese in the remaining sections ofthis course.

Even if your parrot already knows how to perform one or both of these behaviors, you
should still quickly review this section as it is the foundation of behavior training for
nearly all parrot trick trained behavior.


Kamis, 26 Maret 2015

Why We Recommend Using A Clicker — And How To Use It Correctly



Why We Recommend Using A Clicker — And How To Use It Correctly


When my brother and I first got out start in parrot training, we were unaware of what is
now widely known of as “clicker training” but boy has it changed our lives and the lives
of our birds. It is a vital tool in any bird training.

Not using clicker training may be ok for training smaller, cuter tricks like the wave and
fetch. . .but you’ll find that you need a much better method, a method that’s less sloppy
and more precise for training tricks like, how to ride a bike, or riding the roller skates
etc. In order to get your bird to be well trained from the beginning we recommend
clicker training him from the start.

But to understand why this is so important I need to make sure you are well aware of the
ins and outs of what clicker training is, and more specifically the theories behind
positive reinforcement.

Many of my clients are avid readers of my monthly email newsletters, and if you are one
of those who have read everything I’ve ever sent you in an email, then much of this will
be review.

However, I recommend you still read this section as l’ll be discussing some advanced
concepts that I’ve never taught before.


 



 What Is Positive Reinforcement?


Positive reinforcement was first discovered and studied by a Dr. Skinner. Dr. Skinner
was a scientist who experimented with lab rats and made some very revolutionary
discoveries that opened up the world to methods of communicating with animals to get
them to do things, without beating, whipping, shouting or forcing them anymore.

Sadly, many animal trainers still train this way. In fact right now there is a lot of debate
in the dog community between old school ‘man handling’ type of training, and the new
school of thought on positive reinforcement.

This debate is not nearly as violent in the parrot community because of the nature of
parrots. Parrots as ofyet, have not been domesticated, and don’t seem to show the level
of loyalty, regret shame or fear that dogs show.

For example a dog will feel bad for disobeying his owner, while a parrot will not.

For this reason alone, positive reinforcement has been a HUGE breakthrough for parrot
owners, because past attempts at negative reinforcement, where the parrot is punished
for biting, or screaming, have been irrefutably proven to work minimally at best, and
only with a small percentage of parrots.

But let’s get back to Dr. Skinner...

What Dr. Skinner set out to discover, was to see if he could influence a rat to perform a
designated behavior without forcing it upon the rat.

He did that by placing a rat in a container with nothing in the container but a feeding
mechanism. This feeding mechanism was hooked to a remote that allowed Dr. Skinner

to hit a button on his remote, and automatically have a pellet of food dropped into the
rat’s cage from the feeding mechanism.

And to point out another important, but subtle fact... when a pellet dropped, it made a
clicking sound, when it hit the metal food dish after falling from the feeder. I’ll get to

why this is important a little later on.

Dr. Skinners end goal was to take a hungry rat, and see if he could train that rat to press
a lever in the rat’s cage that would automatically trigger the dispensing of a food pellet.
This was a very advanced behavior at the time, and extremely cutting edge. And now is
the basis of all training that you see done at Sea World and hundreds of other animal
shows around the world.

The plan that was so ingenious at the time, was that Dr. Skinner would reward EVERY
and ANY small progress the rat made towards the end result of pressing a food
dispensing lever in it’s cage with it’s paw, until the goal was achieved.
But to do this Skinner had to set goals for the Rat, and set them in reverse order.

He started with writing out an exact description of what he wanted his rat to do, and
then worked backwards from there.

For example, Dr. Skinner probably wrote something along the lines of “The rat will
approach the lever, place one paw on the lever, and then press down on the lever to
release the pellet”.

Then he needed to think of what he would need to train the rat to do immediately before
pressing on the lever. And if you think about it, the task that needs to be done right
before that is you’ve got to get the rat to come stand near the dispenser with his foot
really close to that lever.

And before that you’ve got to get the rat to walk all the way over from the other side of
the cage, to stand by the lever.

And even before that, you’ve got to get the rat to look at the lever, right?
So that’s exactly what Dr. Skinner did.

At first the rats had no concern for the feeder in their cage. And why should they?
They’d never seen it before, and had no idea what it did. So the rat would wander
around the sides of the cage, sniffing in the cracks and doing whatever rats to in a cage
by themselves.

So Dr. Skinner decided that he would reward the rat for any movements made that
helped the rat get closer to the end goal in mind; pressing on that lcvcr. And instead of
punishing the rat for a wrong behavior that led it away from the lever, Dr. Skinner
planned on simply ignoring those behaviors. With the theory that if I just reward the rat
for every small improvement towards pressing that lever, maybe he’ll actually do it.

And he was right!

Then Dr. Skinner sat and waited for the rat to at least look at the feeder. It probably
took several minutes, but when the rat finally did... “click” a food pellet was dropped
from the food dispenser and landed in the rat’s dish.

This got the immediate attention of the rat, which ran over and hungrily munched on the
pellet he’d been longing for. And before long, the hungry rat realized that all he had to
do was look at his feeding dispenser and magically a food pellet would appear.

Proving that any behavior continually rewarded with positive behavior would be
reinforced, and continued to be performed by the animal. And any other behavior
ignored, i.e. not looking at the feeder, would be slowly discontinued in a given set of
circumstances. In this case, if the rat was hungry, he stopped searching around the
corners of his cage, because that NEVER produced a food pellet; the rat realized it was a
futile effort and discontinued that behavior.

Thus positive reinforcement for animals was born!

But how does positive reinforcement work? That’s a question that may seem obvious,
but needs to be explored deeper to really fully comprehend.

Sure, it’s easy to understand why an animal would do something that it kept getting
rewarded for. But how can we apply these same principles to more intricate and
advanced behaviors.

To figure this out, I want to remind you of what happened the second the rat in Dr.
Skinner’s cage did a correct behavior that brought it closer to its goals. What happened
when the rat performed correctly?

If you said, he got a pellet, you’re only half right, and misses the most important part
about Dr. Skir1ner’s findings. The very first thing that happened, is a pellet was released
from the feeding mechanism and made a “click” sound by clanking against the food dish
in the rat’s cage.

This noise was the first signal to the rat that it had done a behavior correctly, and had
earned a reward. This clicking sound is vital to understand. So I want you to think
about what would be going through the rat’s head if the pellet didn’t make a clicking
sound, and let’s say instead, Dr. Skinner silently dropped a food pellet into the cage with
ever good behavior.

The rat, upon performing like Dr. Skinner would wish, would then see a hand come out
of the sky, and place the food pellet into the cage, and then move the hand away. Then,
after the rat was sure the hand wasn’t going to come after him would run over to the
pellet and feast on it.

But did that teach the rat anything? In order for the rat to know what behavior he did
correctly, it needs to be sharply identified, and if it’s not sharply identified, the rat will
only think of the last behavior it performed as earning it the reward.

In the ease of this example, it was probably running away from Dr. Skinners hand when
it came into the cage, out of fear. So if Dr. Skinner would have chosen to perform his
experiments this way, he would have been training the rat to run from his hand, instead
of training the rat to touch the feeding lever! This is crucial you understand.

That’s why the “clicking” sound of the food pellet hitting the rat’s food bowl is so
impoitant. Because it happens at almost the exact instant the rat performs a correct
behavior. Giving the rat ‘instant’ notification that it’s just done somethin g correctly.
This is known in the training world as a “Bridge”. The Definition of a “Bridge” is a
sound, noise, or signal of any form that notifies the animal that it’s done a behavior
correctly, and then bridges the gap, between that instant, and the time it takes to
distribute the reward, usually food, to the animal.

It is almost like the reward itself, but more distinctly, it is a notification to the animal
that a reward is guaranteed.

In the next section we’ll talk about how to best use these same principles to
communicate with your parrot while training, as well as discuss some of the VERY
common mistakes I see people make all the time, that cause them to unknowingly
sabotage themselves and their progress before they even begin.

How To Use The Training Clicker To Train Your Parrot


Now that you understand the importance that a bridge signal plays in animal training
let’s talk about how we’ll be using it on your parrot.

There are only 2 basic fundamentals we need to talk about, when it comes to actually
using the clicker, and l’ve listed them here for you:

1. How to hold the clicker — Not knowing this will have you feeling like you need 6
hands to be a parrot trainer. You’ll find that from time to time you’ll have to
hold a prop, treats, lure your bird, hold your parrot, and move a part of his body
all at the same time. So knowing how to hold the clicker is important.

2. The appropriate time to click — messing this part up can really confuse your
parrot.

First let’s dive into how to hold the clicker. Maybe you think this sounds silly, and
obvious, but trust me it’s not. Your hands can get very fiill, especially when dealing
with props. Sometimes both of your feet need to be holding a pair of roller skates, and
you still have to find a way to click the clicker while still holding the roller skates; it can
be a hard task.

So l’ve included a picture for you that should help show you how to hold the clicker. I
spent about an hour trying to first write out a description that I thought would help you
grasp these clicker holding techniques, but gave up once I realized you could grasp in 2
seconds by looking at a picture, what I was trying to spend an hour describing in words.

When To Click


Timing is critical for your parrot. You need to realize that your parrot doesn’t
understand what you want him to do. lt may sound obvious, but he doesn’t.

If you want your bird to wiggle his left toe when he waves, instead of his right toe, then
you need to make sure you practice and develop a consistent clicking style.

By this I mean that you need to try to click the very instant your parrot has made enough
progress towards the goal you want him to reach. You can’t get sloppy and click too
late, or too early and you must always think of clicking from your bird’s perspective.

Remember, we will be training your parrot to recognize the clicking sound of the clicker
as the signal you give him at the exact moment he’s done something correctly.

So for example, let’s say your parrot is learning the Roller Skating routine later in this
course, and he’s just started to move one of the skates forward for his first full glide.

But instead of clicking the second he completes the glide, you wait an extra half second,
and during that half second the bird accidentally twists the skate to the side.

What have you communicated to your bird? You’ve sig11aled to him that the correct
behavior is to take a full glide on the roller skates, and twist the skate at the end of the
movement! So now you’ll have to retrain that behavior through extinction techniques
we’ll talk about later in this course, before you can get your bird back to where he’d
progressed to.

Lazy, imprecise clicking, will force you to focus much of your efforts on re-training
your parrot.

To help you sharpen your clicking skills, I highly recommend this activity that can be
done with a partner. (A human partner.)

How To Sharpen Your Clicking Skills


In this exercise you’re going to work with a friend of yours to hone your clicking skills.
lt’s a lot of fun, and if you feel stupid about doing it, grab a young kid and have them
play along, they’ll love it, and you’ll get to practice without looking silly.

lt’s important that you grab a person that has never played this exercise and ONLY tell
them this one rule.

Tell them... “The goal of this game is to work for clicks.”

That’s it! Don’t tell them anything else. lt’s likely that the person will ask you for more
details. But always respond by saying, “all I can tell you is that the goal of the game is
to work for chcks.”

The reason this can be the only thing you tell the person playing the game with you, is
because my goal from teaching you this game is to teach you what it’s like to train an
animal more effectively.

And when you first start training your parrot, he won’t know the rules of the game
either. In fact, your parrot doesn’t even know as much as the person you’re playing this
game with. Because your parrot doesn’t know that the name of the game is to earn
clicks. We still have to teach him that. But more on that later.

The point that I’m trying to teach you is how to train a living being to do something in a
completely different way than you are used to. This game takes away all of the ways
you can cheat, and only gives you one way to communicate; with a clicker.

You can’t give little hints, you can’t point to things, and you probably shouldn’t use
facial expressions either. Only use the clicker!

What do you use the clicker for? Good question. Here’s how the game works.

Start in a room with the partner you’ve chosen to play this game with. And in your head
think of something you’d like to get your partner to do. It could be anything. Maybe
you want to get them to walk over to the TV and turn it on. Or maybe you want them to
walk over to the refrigerator, grab a gallon of milk, pour you a glass and bring it to you.

Whatever it is, it doesn’t matter. It just has to be something that is within the physical
limitations of your partner.

But here’s the catch. Your only means of telling you partner what task you want them to
do, is by clicking the clicker.

This forces you to think like Dr. Skinner and the rat he wanted to train to touch the lever
on its food bowl. You need to think of small progressive movements you’d like your
partner to perform, gradually reward him, and tell him that he’s moving in the right
direction by clicking every time he makes progress toward the end goal.

For example, if you’re wanting to try the getting you a glass of milk task, which I highly
recommend, you’ll need to first click your partner for any movement made towards a
glass in the cupboard.

Keep in mind that your partner has no idea of the task he’s supposed to do, and you’ll be
forced to be very clear, and precise with your ‘clicking’ to make sure he doesn’t get
confused.

Remember, ‘click’ every time he moves towards your goal, and completely ignore any
actions not moving towards the goal. Soon he’ll realize that you’re shaping his path
towards a desired action or goal. But be patient, because it could take him a few
minutes to understand what’s earning him the clicks. Just like your bird won’t
understand what the clicks mean in the beginning either.

You’ll also notice that the game gets a lot harder when you have someone do more
specific tasks. For example once you’ve got your friend to grab the milk out of the
fridge, you’ll have to think of ways to click and reward your friend for tipping the milk
jug, into the corresponding glass.

So remember to click for small movements. Just like you’ll be forced to reward your
bird for small movements, your friend will need the same. Even a slight tipping of the
milk jug towards a tipping over motion, even if its just an inch, is progress towards the
end goal, so remember to ‘click’ him for it and all other progress, until the game is
complete and the task has been accomplished.








 Half Of My Students Don’t Do This Exercise, And Their Training Skills Suck! S0 Don’t Skip It!


As you can probably tell by this last little headline... I don’t write to please, I write to
help people train their parrots better, and sometimes that means telling it like it is. And
the truth of the matter is —- clicking takes practice. Those that don’t practice will
struggle.

l know this because about a month ago I ran a contest. I decided to reward people by
entering their name into a drawing for some cool prizes, if they’d send me a video of
them training their parrot.

And although this was a fun contest to run and I received lots of great videos, I also
found that people were not following my training instructions clearly. They were
clicking the clicker at the completely wrong time. Sometimes they’d wait 10 seconds
before clicking, or they’d click after they’d rewarded the bird with a treat for doing a
behavior.

I could tell the birds were completely confused, and it was nothing short of an act of
God that they were ever able to teach their birds anything. It’s sort of like the
frustrating people who send back my videos telling me that my methods don’t work...
but after examining the package they returned, I notice that the clicker was never even
taken out of the plastic wrap!  I wonder how well they could have possibly
followed my instructions without even trying to use the clicker.

So from then on I’ve decided to change up my writing style to dive straight to the point,
and not pull any punches. l’ve discovered that if you don’t tell people exactly what they
need to do, why they need to do it, and what will go wrong if they don’t follow my
instructions, they’ll get a wild hair up their “you know what” and make up the rules as
they go.

That’s why this game is important. Because you need to realize that if the bird isn’t
doing what you want it to do, it is NOT the bird’s fault. Just like it isn’t your friends
fault for not knowing that he’s supposed to poor you a glass of milk out of the
refrigerator.

It’s your fault. And the only way to fix it is to be more precise. Pay attention to
clicking at the right times, and make as few mistakes as possible. Because the clicker is
your only form of communication, you should treat it with respect, it’s the only way to
see training success.

Some Common Mistakes I See With The Clicker


I’ve already mentioned a few of the mistakes people make with the clicker, but think it’s
important to cover several more, so you don’t accidentally make these same mistakes.

First Common Mistake — Clicking At The Wrong Time.

A click’s only purpose is to immediately identify to the parrot when it’s done a correct
behavior. The click marks the action, and signifies that a reward is in order for what it
has done at that specific instant, and nothing else. So don’t click too early, or too late!

Second Most Common Mistake — Clicking Too Often

I used to make this mistake too, so I’m to blame for this as well. But you don’t need to
click more than once. You’re bird heard the click the first time. More isn’t always
better.

Third Most Common Mistake — Clicking and not rewarding

Don’t do this. Don’t ever click and not reward your parrot. Even if you sound the
clicker on accident, your bird needs to still get a reward. Here’s why: Once you’re bird
understands that a treat is coming every time he hears that clicker, you don’t want to
confuse your parrot by only rewarding some of the time he hears the clicker, because
you’ll ruin your credibility with your bird.

It would be like telling your kid that if he cleans his room, you’ll take him out for ice
cream. At first the kid cleans his room faster than you’ve ever seen him before. But if
you promise your kid ice cream and never actually get him the ice cream, or only give it
some of the time, your kid’s going to wonder if he’s really going to get rewarded for
cleaning his room. And since he’s not sure he’ll get rewarded, he’s also not sure how
fast, and how thoroughly, he’ll clean his room.

Your parrot is the same. He’ll stop working as hard for you, if you click him, and don’t
reward. And for this reason, you’ll also want to make sure that you don’t make the 4"‘
most common mistake.

Fourth Most Common Mistake — Letting Your Kids Get A hold of the Clicker

The second your kids get a hold of the clicker they’ll sound it off every chance they get,
and your parrot will expect a reward for every one of those clicks. Eventually ruining
the credibility of the click. Clicks are gold for your parrot. Don’t let your kids ruin that.

 

Convincing Your Parrot To Work For ‘Clicks’


Now that you understand why we use thc clicker, and how to sharpen your clicking
skills, you need to condition your parrot to develop a respect and understanding of what
the clicker is trying to communicate to him. This process is called clicker conditioning.

To condition an animal to understand what the clicker is trying to say, we need to pair
the sound of the clicker with a pleasurable experience.

This can be many things, but is usually a treat, and is made even more rewarding if it is
a treat given before meal time to a slightly hungry bird.

When you start this process, your bird will have no idea what’s going on, and it will be a
couple days before he does, so don’t worry.

First just get your parrot and place him on a T stand or perch of some sort where it will
be easy to give him treats. Make sure you have plenty of his treats handy, and that they
can be easily reached. You don’t want to be fiddling with the lid on the peanut jar when
your bird is anxiously awaiting his treat.

Then simply take the clicker, and ‘click’ it. Your bird will perk up, and you then give
him a treat. Repeat this many times for several days. Many people find it helpful to
cairy a small pouch full of treats with them all over the house, along with their clicker.
And every time they think of it, ‘click’, walk over to their bird’s cage and give him
another treat.

The sole purpose of this conditioning phase is to get the bird to realize and expect that
every time he hears that clicker a treat should be on its way soon. This should
eventually get to the point, where it becomes obvious that your bird gets enthusiastic
when you sound the clicker. It is at this point you’ve conditioned him perfectly and
you’re ready to move onto the training.

And just to give you another example, there was a scientist by the name of Dr. Pavlov,
who used these same principles to train a dog to be conditioned to the sound of a dinner
bell. Dr. Pavlov would ring the bell, and then proceed to feed the dog, for many days in
a row. And it did not take long before the dog would start to salivate every time it heard
the bell, because it could visualize in it’s mind the food that it was about to receive.

Again... this is a vital step in the process of trick training and should not be skipped.



Selasa, 24 Maret 2015

Establishing Your Parrot’s Training Diet

Establishing Your Parrot’s Training Diet


The training diet, like many of the “core” necessities of parrot trick training is essential,
and often gets me into heated arguments as to its validity.

There are people who profess to be experts in the parrot world who get very upset when
they find out that I set birds up on a training diet despite my efforts to show them how to
do it in a way that is actually healthier for the bird than not being on a training diet.

l’ve found that these people can tend to be the “tree hugger” type, and I’m not against
firing them as customers. Of course I do it politely, and they get their full refund, but
I’m not in business to make everyone fall in love with me. I’m in business to teach
principles that work, and that improve a bird’s health and happiness. And I have way
too many other customers who’ve become true believers in the magical things a training
diet can do for a bird, to let a heckler or two get to me.

I tell you this to prepare you for the uneducated would—be parrot savior who may
attempt to come into your life after starting your bird on a training diet. Don’t let them
convince you that you’re an evil person.

So here’s what I’m going to do for you... first I’m going to explain how to set your
parrot up on a healthy training diet, that will leave him motivated for training. And then
I’m going to show you how to counter a would be “training diet hater” when you meet
them in an intemet chatroom or forum. That way you’ll know how to stand up for
yourself and these proven training principles.


Why Does Your Bird Need A Training Diet?


Trick training is predominately taught by rewarding a parrot with a treat for performing
a particular task or tasks. Treats are not the only form of motivation that work
effectively. Praise, scratches on the head, and strokes under a bird’s wings work well
too. But for 95% of parrots, food is the best motivator.

There are however, right and wrong ways to use food as a reward for training your bird.
To demonstrate these reasons, let me ask you a question?

Let’s say it’s Sunday, and you are having family in from out of town, and heading out to
the biggest, best place for Sunday brunch in your town. This place doesn’t just offer
brunch; they offer the most conclusive spread of amazing food you’ve ever seen. They
even bring in the best Chefs from around the area.

Warm plate in hand, you head for the omelets first, and then come back for a quiche,
waffles smothered with strawberries and whip cream, and you can’t help yourself so you
grab a cinnamon role and pile up a plate of fresh fruit too,

Let me ask you a very important question that is vital for you to understand if you’re
going to have success in training your parrot? How do you feel after you’ve managed to
cram all that food into your stomach?

I’m serious, answer the question for yourself. Here’s a list of the ways I’d feel:

  • ·         Lethargic
  • ·         Like I want to take a nap
  • ·         Sick from too much sugar
  • ·         I’d have a stomach ache
  • ·         Like I’d puke if I got too much exercise


So now let me ask you this? It’s THE most important point of this whole section... if
after that point where you were stuffed beyond stuffed and didn’t want to eat another
bite, would it matter if I hired the world’s best gourmet chef, flew him in from Italy, and
had him bake you your most favorite dessert?

Unless you’re a total glutton for punishment, my guess is you’d turn down any more
food at the drop of a hat! You wouldn’t even think twice about it. And just the thought
of more food makes you green at the gills.

So how does this relate to parrot training?
For most parrot owners, they treat their parrots like the restaurant business treats Sunday

brunch. Every day they leave a full bowl of food in their parrot’s cage all day long.
This inevitably causes the bird to overeat, get overweight and lethargic.

But more importantly, from a training perspective, a bird that’s been stuffing his face
into a never ending pile of food for the last 5 years or more, doesn’t get real fired up
about learning a new trick when all you’re offering him, is the same sunflower seed that
he’s been chomping on all day!

Do you understand how important this point is? To train a bird requires that the bird
know that if he does something you want him to do; he will get a reward that is worth
working for. And if that reward isn’t worth working for, you’re going to have a tough
time training your bird. It’s that cut and dry.

Manufacture A Training Diet That Helps Motivate Your Parrot


To do this let me first explain the basics. I am not talking about any form of starvation
or food deprivation. In fact, your bird will get nearly the same amount of food that he
already gets; he just won’t have access to it all day long. Instead we’ll break it up into
meals for him.

I should also mention that when changing your bird over to the diet I am about to
recommend, you should consult your avian veterinarian to make sure that your bird is in
good enough health to be put on this type of diet.

1 should also mention that a baby parrot that is still growing should not be placed on this
diet either as their bodies are in constant need of nutrition necessary to become healthy
adult birds. Restricting a growing bird’s caloric intake is not a healthy or wise thing to
do.

I also want to encourage you to adopt the practice of weighing your birds daily. You
should do this for 2 main reasons:

1. Because the training diet limits your bird’s access to food, the only way you can
know for sure that your parrot is getting enough food to remain healthy, and that
you are not over restricting his diet, is to monitor his bodyweight. This is
critically important when training smaller birds, because any drop in bodyweight
is more critical to a cockatiel or parakeet, than a Macaw.

A macaw could go several days without food before dying, Where a parakeet
might make it a day and a half. Attempting a training diet without using a scale
is foolish, and not recommended.

2. The second reason is because a parrot will first show signs of sickness by
dropping its bodyweight. And because we make a strict practice of weighin g our
parrots daily, we’ve saved the lives of Linus, our cockatoo, and the lives of one
of our Toucans, by our weight charts showing a drop in weight and us getting the
bird to the veterinarian in time to fight off a deadly infection that would have
killed our bird if we’d waited another 24 hours. It’s vital you treat this with
importance.

Which Brings Me To The Second Most Popular Mistake I SeePeople Make When Setting Up A Training Diet For Their Bird


Picking the wrong food can crumble your chances at training success before you even
start. The reason for this is because currently over 50% of the parrots in the world are
told by the breeders and pet stores they bought their birds from, that an all seed based
diet is normal, healthy and OK.

This is complete garbage, and you may be shocked to hear this, but you’re cutting your
bird’s lifespan in half if you feed it an all seed based diet!

I’m not going to go into all the reasons why seeds are terrible as a base diet for your
parrot. That discussion deserves its own place and time. This course is about trick
training, and l’n1 going to do my best to keep it that way. But it should be sufficient to
say that you need to make sure your bird is eating at the very least, a pellet based diet;
preferably an organic pellet based diet.

I personally recommend and use an organic pellet manufactured by a friend of mine,
which has recently been getting a lot of recognition in the parrot world for her quality of
food. And you can find some of this food on my website at http://www.birdtricks.com/
organic. The food isn’t cheap, but neither is your bird. And in my opinion, you need to
focus on feeding your bird the highest quality of food, versus trying to find the cheapest
bargains. It is true, that in life you get what you pay for, so you should worry if you’re
buying your food for $8 a bag at your local pet store, it’s probably garbage!

Ok I’m done. I’ll get off my soapbox now and approach this issue of food from a
second, and entirely different, perspective. Even if you don’t care one bit about the
nutrition and quality of health of your bird, you should still avoid seed based diets for
this reason...

Usually, seeds make the best treats! And it’s as true for parrots as it is for us humans;
absence makes the heart grow stronger! Meaning that I suggest you pull all seeds out of
your parrot’s diet, so that when you offer them as treats, those seeds suddenly become
way more worthwhile to work for after one week without them, then if they were always
in your bird’s food bowl.

I’m going to go slightly off track here and just mention briefly the importance of findin g
treats that your bird enjoys as training rewards. The easiest way to accomplish this is to
offer a bowl of what you think would be yummy treats; seeds, nuts, and fresh cut fruit to
your bird. Watch what he goes for first and what he leaves behind.

Offer these first eaten treats as rewards when you begin training but be sure to offer a
variety of treats throughout the training process so that your bird does not become bored
with any particular food.

Setting Up A Training Diet For Your Parrot


By now you understand you should be feeding your bird a pellet based diet, you’ve got a
weight scale to monitor your bird’s weight so that he stays healthy. Now let’s talk about
the specific details and suggested guidelines for setting up your bird’s training diet.

Here is my philosophy...

I am a big believer in not leaving a bird’ s food dish full all day long. Instead I believe in
setting up an eating schedule for your bird, sort of like mealtimes.

There are three ways you can set up your bird’s training diet

I. You can train 3 times per day, with 3 scheduled feeding times. This is the
quickest way to see results in your parrot, and allows you to have 3 training
sessions throughout the day.

2. You can set up a 2 separate meal times throughout the day, and train before you
head to work in the morning, and then again when you come home from work.

3. Or you can just train once per day, usually in the morning. This will get you the
slowest results that you’re after, but will still work.

Some of this may be determined by your personal schedule but it will also be
determined by your bird’s attention span. Some birds simply cannot or won’t train three
times a day.

Setting Your Bird Up To Train 3 Times A Day


When I’ve a new trick in mind, I like to train my parrot three times per day. You will
find that your parrot has a limited attention span, and that your parrot only enjoys
training for a limited amount of time. When you first start training your bird, this
amount of time, can literally be as long as 30 seconds and may only give you enough
time to get one or two repetitions of a behavior in, before your bird is no longer
interested.

What a training diet does is get your bird hungry; not starving. Just like you and 1 might
get hungry between breakfast and lunch, or lunch and dinner. It’s the same way for
your bird. We set up training, and feeding schedule so that between meals the bird gets
hungry for his next meal.

Then all we have to do is offer that bird a treat he truly loves, and he’s going to be 10
times more motivated to perform for us.

Here’s how the set up goes...

You’ll want to plan out your training a day in advance. The night before you plan on
starting your parrots training, I recommend you make sure he gets a good dinner, with
lots of healthy foods. Make sure he gets tons of fruits and veggies, and lots of his pellet
mix. Then, after he’s finished eating, take his food out of his cage.

This way, in the morning when the bird wakes up, and goes through his normal ritual of
marching down to his food bowl to get some breakfast because he’s hungry, he’ll be
forced to turn to you for his source of food.

So that next morning when you wake up, make sure to have a baggie of your bird’s
favorite treats ready. This should be something your parrot truly loves to eat. My bird
likes sunflower seeds, safflower seeds, banana chips, and peanuts. Peanuts are by far
absolute favorite.

This sets up the stage for a perfect training situation. You should then train your bird
until he starts to lose interest, preferably before. Make sure to end on a positive training
note and then put your bird back in his cage. This time make sure to also put back his
full food bowl and plenty of fresh fruits and veggies.

Congratulations, you’ve now finished the first of three training sessions for the day.
Now you can let your parrot eat, while you get some breakfast for yourself, and get
ready to head to work, or the office, or whatever you do during your day.

Just remember, that before you head out of the house each morning, and after your bird
has had plenty to eat, remove your bird’s food bowl from his cage, so he’ll be hungry
when you come back for lunch.
When you come back from lunch, simply repeat the process again.

Take your bird out of his cage, train him while he’s hungry with tempting treats, and try
to always end the training sessions before your bird gets bored. Place the bird back in
his cage, feed him a lunch he can stuff himself with, and before heading back out to the
office, remove your bird’s food bowl once again, so that when you come back from the
office, he’s ready to work for treats.

I’m sure you know what comes next, but I’ll finish anyways...

The third training sessions will take place when you come home from work for the
evening. Your parrot will not have had food in his cage for the last several hours and
he’ll be ready for his dinner.

But before you feed him his dinner, train him for a third time, always rewarding with his
favorite treats and ending before he gets bored. Keep the training fun and playful for
your bird.

When you’re done, prepare a nutritious feast for your bird. Give him all the goodies he
desires, and let him stuff himself and have access to as much food as he wants until you
go to bed for the evening.

Then right before you cover his cage, or put him to sleep, take out his food bowl for the
evening.

That’s it! Now just repeat the same process day after day and you’re now putting your
bird on a training diet that is providing more than enough nutrition, yet still motivating
him to pcrfoim tricks.



Do I Need To Always Have My Bird On A Training Diet?


Absolutely not! Training diets are only needed during intense training sessions. They
are especially important when first starting out on a new trick, or if your bird hasn’t
been training for long.

You’ll find that without placing your bird on a training diet, your training sessions will
be much shorter because without the diet your bird lacks motivation to work for food
and will thus become bored with the training MUCH quicker.

This makes it really hard to develop what I call “Training Momentum”. Training
momentum is when a bird has been on a training diet, and you’ve been working with
him regularly for weeks.

He probably started with only a few minute attention span, but because of the training
diet, a seasoned trained bird can train for up to 45 minutes at a time, three times a day!

This is the type of training momentum I’ve created with Tiko, my Blue and Gold
Macaw, and it allows me to train completely new behaviors in a day or two, behaviors
that might take other birds a few weeks to learn.

It’s not that my bird is that much smarter, but that he’ll out work any other bird 10 to 1
during the same amount of time. This has several advantages.

·         The bird remembers what he was trained in previous sessions more easily

·         The bird ends up spending more time with you, due to longer training sessions,and develops a stronger bond with you, becoming a much more loving pet
·         The bird doesn’t have to be re—taught anything from the previous days training
sessions.

You’ll find that parrot training is usually 2 steps forward one day and then the next day
your bird will start the day 1 step back from where he ended the day before. And things
must be re—taught, and reinforced every day.

So the more training sessions you can get into your bird’s daily schedule the quicker
he’ll progress through these amazing tricks you’ll soon learn about in this course.